Yanuca and on to a surf mecca

 The next morning dawned grey and rainy, and the forecast suggested more was on the way. We decided there was no utility in staying around the west coast of Kadavu. It seemed that, for the moment at least, the effect of this land mass on the easterly trade winds is to invite the release of the moisture accumulated on the 3000 mile journey over the Pacific from South America.

We knew we had a date to collect Cathe on the following Thursday so we had 4 nights to make our way to Denarau with a day in hand. We detoured past the famed Astrolabe Reef and headed north to the Beqa Reef, with the prospect of (at least) taking a look at the Frigates surf break on the way past.

After a few hours of good sailing in the stormy easterly conditions, the reef approached on our starboard side. A confluence of a change in course and wind direction saw us suddenly experience a very stormy 20 kts of strong wind from directly on the nose, just as we approached the surf break.

Once we furled the sails, we admired the very impressive waves breaking in the middle of the ocean, white horses manes blowing off the backs, large inviting tubes breaking under a leaden and stormy sky. From a distance it looked awesome but the reality was there was no-where to anchor, and while the waves looked good from a distance, they would be shifty, powerful and challenging up close.

We motor/bashed into the short swells for another hour inside the reef before we came to Yanuca Island. It was a little unclear as to whether the anchorage would be adequately sheltered, which would have made for some difficult decisions with dusk approaching and the next viable anchorage at least another hour away across a poorly charted and very stormy lagoon. We were relieved when the anchor went down in relatively calm water off the south east corner, and we hunkered down for a well-earned night’s rest.

The next day was Sunday, and we decided to go to Yanuca village on the eastern shore to present sevusevu. We went ashore and introduced ourselves to Sarah who’s house was at the anchorage. She was charming and friendly and asked her daughter to escort us to the village.

The church service was still underway so we made our way to a pew to wait in respectful silence, enjoying the service and the hymns.

The chief was elderly and had to be escorted the 50 m from church back to his house. Nonetheless he was welcoming, engaged and very interested to hear our story. An elder deputised for the formalities and we were once again humbled to be invited to be honorary members of the village at the conclusion of the ceremony.

On our way back over the hill we admired the colourful houses and said hello to the people out in their well-tended gardens. The houses and gardens of Yanuca are beautifully well-curated.  

The next day we checked out the deserted “resort” ashore, and on Sarah’s recommendation motored around to the south side to introduce ourselves at the open resort/homestay there. Waisele was happy to have visitors on a Sunday. The surfers hadn’t really returned since covid but he did have a few day trippers out from the mainland to enjoy lunch at his idyllic location. It was probably only a 2 star resort at best, but the beautiful white beach, palm trees and grassy surrounds were definitely 6 star.

The next day we left, again via Frigates. This time I managed to drop the anchor, but again the weather didn’t favour a proper stop so I had to leave it unridden for the moment.

 We headed to Culu on the mainland which looked like a decent anchorage, with the possibility of cocktails at the adjacent resort. We arrived to find the anchorage OK, but the resort unwelcoming, not to mention that the vibe was very Aussie package-holiday..

Instead, we motored the dinghy up the estuary and were cheerfully granted permission by a friendly local gent to tie up in out the back of his house. We then made our way into the little town, where we found a few dusty shops and a bar, so I belatedly made good on my cocktail promise as we whiled away the afternoon.

The next day we made our way to the most famous surf destination in Fiji: Cloudbreak. The day was still and sunny as we anchored inside the picturesque reef. I took the dinghy over for a glassy but tiny wave while Paul and Clare paddled the SUPs around the coral. 

It was a beautiful stopover but we had to leave by early afternoon to get to Musket Cove, one of the most popular cruising destinations in Fiji. More cocktails and Fiji bitters were on offer, followed by pizzas at the café.

The next day it was time to head for Denarau to (finally) collect Cathe for her first proper trip on Evenstar.